O Connell Street Upper to Lower: The Main Street of Dublin’s Past

Dublin isn’t just a city, it’s a living memory of Ireland’s evolution. And nowhere is this more visible than on O’Connell Street, the grand avenue that stitches together history, culture, rebellion, and rhythm. Start from O’Connell Street Upper near Parnell Square, and walk from south to O’Connell Street Lower, and you’ll experience more than sights, you’ll feel the pulse of Ireland itself.
This is the street where revolutions were born, where statues still bear bullet scars, and where modern life now dances with history. It’s more than a tourist spot, it’s the spine of Dublin. Whether it’s the towering Spire, the imposing GPO, or even the comforting buzz of locals outside Penneys O’Connell Street, every corner here breathes life.
History Beneath Your Feet: From Drogheda Lane to National Pride
The story of O’Connell Street Upper begins in the 17th century, when it was a humble lane called Drogheda Street. Thanks to developer Luke Gardiner, it was transformed in the 18th century into a grand boulevard named Sackville Street. Its tree-lined mall, elegant Georgian buildings, and open promenade made it the heart of a growing Dublin.
But history shook it. The General Post Office (GPO) became, in 1916, on O’Connell Street Lower, the headquarters for the Easter Rising. Rebels proclaimed the Irish Republic from its steps. British gunboats responded with brutal shelling, and fires reduced much of the street to rubble. Buildings like Clery’s melted in flames. The bullet marks remain even today, silent witnesses of Ireland’s struggle.
Later, the street was renamed after Daniel O’Connell, the “Liberator,” a sign that Dublin chose Irish heroes over colonial titles. With time, it healed. But it never forgot.
O’Connell Street Landmarks That Speak Louder Than Words

Walk slowly. Each structure and statue on O’Connell Street Upper and Lower is a chapter of Irish history. Begin at Parnell Monument in the north, where Charles Stewart Parnell stands tall. Below his statue is a quote reminding Ireland of unity and perseverance.
A few steps down, you’ll meet The Spire, a 120-meter stainless steel needle piercing the Dublin sky. It stands where Nelson’s Pillar once rose before being destroyed in 1966. Today, the Spire symbolizes modernity, contrasting with the vintage elegance around it.
Right across is the GPO, with its grand Greek columns. Enter it not just for stamps but for stories. The Witness History museum inside brings the Rising to life. Even without visiting the exhibit, placing your hand on its facade gives you a sense of gravity.
Look around, and you’ll see:
- Jim Larkin, arms raised eternally in resistance
- Sir John Gray, who brought clean water to Dublin
- Clery’s Clock, where generations have agreed to meet “under the clock”
- And at the southern tip, the O’Connell Monument, flanked by angels still bearing bullet marks. Each step takes you deeper into Ireland’s soul.
Everyday Magic: The Street’s Atmosphere and Vibe
History may define O’Connell Street, but its magic lies in the everyday. In the morning, it’s filled with city workers grabbing coffee and tourists photographing the Spire. By midday, the pace quickens. Restaurants on O’Connell Street fill up, shoppers emerge from Penneys, and musicians bring the median to life.
You’ll hear multiple languages, feel the shuffle of school groups, and catch locals debating football. The street is noisy, unfiltered, yet welcoming.
Evenings bring a shift. The lights glow warmly across the polished granite. Buses pass, couples linger on benches near statues, and laughter drifts from nearby pubs like Madigan’s O’Connell Street. In December, fairy lights and choirs transform the entire avenue into a winter wonderland.
I once stood by the O’Connell Monument during a December snowfall, watching a brass band play “O Holy Night.” The crowd fell silent, and the street held its breath for a few seconds. That’s the power of this place, it invites connection, not just sightseeing.
Blending Old and New: How O’Connell Street is Developing
Change is the only constant here. After the destruction of 1916 and the Civil War, O’Connell Street was rebuilt. The Gresham Hotel, still standing proud on O’Connell Street Upper Dublin, was reborn in the 1920s and continues to welcome guests today. But by the 1980s, things got rough. Poor planning, tacky signage, and closed-up storefronts dulled the street’s luster. Still, Dublin fought back.
The 2000s brought renewal. The street regained its charm with the addition of the Spire, better pavements, restored statues, and car traffic limits. Trams returned via the Luas, and historic buildings like Clerys were revived into modern shopping and hospitality hubs.
Today, Burger King O’Connell Street may sit near revolutionary landmarks, but it does so as part of the street’s complex evolution. This blend of gritty, grand, historic, and modern makes O’Connell Street impossible to forget.
Food, Drinks, and Friendly Faces: Where to Refuel in O’Connell Street

Hungry after your walk? You’re spoiled for choice. For quick bites, places like Burger King, Supermac’s, and cafés like Insomnia line the street. These may be chain spots, but sitting by the window with a coffee in hand, watching Dubliners hustle by is a moment.
For something traditional, grab a Guinness and Irish stew at Madigan’s, a Victorian-style pub that has seen it all. Its wood-paneled interiors, stained glass, and old-world charm make it feel like time travel.
If you’re after sit-down dining, try Flanagan’s Restaurant on O’Connell Street, offering everything from Irish classics to pasta and burgers. It’s casual but consistently good. Or walk a minute to Pho Viet on Parnell Street for a warm bowl of authentic pho, perfect on a rainy day.
Hotels like the Gresham and Hotel Indigo offer elegant meals, and during summer, you might stumble on street food stalls or an ice cream truck parked near the Spire. Dublin might not be famous for cuisine, but you’ll find flavors seasoned with stories on O’Connell Street.
Hidden Corners and Nearby Treasures in O’Connell Street
Want to escape the buzz for a minute? Just a block away from O’Connell Street Upper, you’ll find Moore Street, home to Dublin’s oldest market. Among the fruit stands and flower sellers are echoes of 1916, when rebels made their last stand in these narrow lanes. A small plaque marks the spot.
Step into Henry Street for shopping. You’ll find Arnotts, local boutiques, and busy arcades. Just off it is the statue of James Joyce, a favorite for literature fans. Rub his bronze shoe for good luck, they say.
Further north, Parnell Square offers calm. The Garden of Remembrance is a reflective space dedicated to those who gave their lives for Irish freedom. The nearby Dublin City Gallery (Hugh Lane) holds Monet and Bacon masterpieces free to enter.
Every side street leads to a new tale. I once wandered into a snug at The Oval Bar, off Middle Abbey Street, and was told it’s where rebel leaders once drank in secret. Who knows? With Dublin, you never know what door opens into the past.
A Living, Breathing Dublin: Street Life Beyond Landmarks
What makes O’Connell Street unforgettable isn’t just its buildings and people. The Dublin Bus driver was waving at kids from the head office at 59 O’Connell Street Upper. The man selling €1 strawberries on Moore Street with a thick Dublin accent. The woman is humming as she polishes a statue at sunrise.
It’s the local who sees you checking a map and offers help. The elderly couple under Clery’s clock reminisce about their first date. The school group was gasping inside the GPO museum. This street doesn’t just host memories, it creates them every day.
The soul of O’Connell Street lies in these unscripted interactions. It teaches that heritage isn’t locked behind glass; it walks beside you, talks to you, and sometimes offers directions. When you reach the edge of O’Connell Street Lower, standing on O’Connell Bridge, the River Liffey beneath you, and the sky overhead, you won’t feel like a visitor anymore. You’ll feel woven into the fabric of Dublin.
This is not a checklist destination. It’s a story you step into. O’Connell Street Upper to Lower is where Ireland reflects on its past and dreams forward. It’s where monuments rise, voices echo, and everyday life thrives in the glow of history.
So walk it. Feel it. Listen to the accents, the music, and the distant tram bell. Let the statues guide you. And let Dublin tell you her stories one cobblestone at a time. Because once you’ve walked O’Connell Street, you haven’t just seen Dublin, you’ve met her.
Your Next Adventure Starts Here
If walking O’Connell Street has sparked your curiosity, don’t stop there. Dublin and its surrounding gems have so much more to offer, from cliff walks to historic town centers. Every step reveals a new story.
Start with Littlewoods Ireland, not just a shopping hub but a lens into Ireland’s contemporary style and culture. Whether you’re browsing online or picking up Irish essentials, it’s a modern connection to the nation’s evolving lifestyle.
Then, take a day trip to Kildare’s attractions, which are a perfect mix of Irish heritage, horse country charm, and designer outlet shopping. It’s a calm retreat just outside the capital. Craving more of Dublin’s heartbeat? Walk through Dame Street, where history whispers from every building and live music spills from café doors. It’s lively, layered, and unmistakably Dublin.
And if the sea calls, make your way to Howth Cliff Walk, just a short ride away. Fresh air, crashing waves, and panoramic views will give you a different Irish high. Whether it’s hidden corners in the city or scenic escapes beyond it, each destination builds on what O’Connell Street begins, a journey through Ireland’s past, present, and pulse.
FAQs
1. What’s the difference between O’Connell Street Upper and Lower?
Upper is the north end near Parnell Square, which is home to transport offices and hotels. Lower is near the river, with landmarks like the GPO and O’Connell Monument.
2. What’s at 59 O’Connell Street Upper?
The Dublin Bus Head Office is where you can get transit information. It’s open Monday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and Friday from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
3. Are there hotels on O’Connell Street in Dublin?
Yes, including the Gresham, Holiday Inn Express, and Hotel Indigo, all within walking distance of the main sights.
4. Where can I eat on O’Connell Street?
Choices range from Burger King O’Connell Street to traditional pubs like Madigan’s, casual spots like Flanagan’s, and nearby Asian restaurants.
5. How long does it take to walk the entire street?
Roughly 10 minutes nonstop. But to experience it fully with stops, photos, food, and stories, give it at least an hour.